Thailand: Bangkok and Ayutthaya

 Thailand

And now for something completely different: we broke away from the great white north, for three weeks in the amazing national parks of Thailand. This was our second trip, after our appetite was whetted three years ago with several days in Kaeng Krachan National Park. One trip is not enough!

Thailand is about half way around the world from Vermont. This is one of those rare lifetime opportunities to step into a forest and encounter everything new: every species of bird and tree is unknown back home.

We began, as most Thailand trips do, in Bangkok. The city is massive. It stretches for a dozen miles in all directions from the old city downtown. Our hotel room was squeezed into a space beside the Chao Phraya, Thailand's principal river. We strolled through Wat Pho, an incredibly ornate old temple just down the street. Thailand is pretty strong economically, but average incomes are far below those of Europe and North America. So it was humbling to stand before these massive examples of ornamental architecture and appreciate the sacrifices that the Thai people make to construct and maintain these buildings, for the purposes of meditation and worship.

Buddha figures in the calming posture

The Golden Mount, rising over Bangkok

Ornate wall illustration at the Grand Palace, Bangkok

Grand Palace, Bangkok

Despite the noise, chaos, and ever-present scooters and motorcycles, downtown Bangkok is not birdless. We found this Oriental Magpie-robin singing away on the temple grounds. We also got our first looks at Thailand's other common birds, like Coppersmith Barbet, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, Zebra Dove, and Asian Koel. Our guide also took us to a Bangkok temple (Wat Suan Yai) with Alexandrine Parakeets and Spotted Owlets. Big lizards prowl around the canals, too.

Oriental Magpie-Robin in Bangkok

Southeast Asian Water Monitor, a huge lizard common in downtown Bangkok

Spotted Owlet at a Bangkok temple

The restaurant tab in Bangkok,
with elegant Thai writing

We also spent a day at Ayutthaya, an area of elaborate temple ruins north of Bangkok. These structures were created roughly around the year 1300, and are mostly still standing today. Flitting around the ruins were several impressive Eurasian Hoopoes, along with flashy Small Minivets.

Ancient ruins at Ayutthaya

Eurasian Hoopoe, Ayutthaya

Just across the river from our hotel in Bangkok was the famed Wat Arun, which is lighted each night for a breathtaking display against the sunset. It's a stirring image, but also a reminder of the pollution and poor air quality in this busy city: the red hues are produced by airborne particulates generated by both dirty vehicle engines and burning of agricultural fields just outside the city.

After a few days to get over the jet lag, we were ready for national parks.